Italian Oyster Mushroom, Pleurotus pulminarius: Hungry Eye M AY 2 0 1 8 6 7 photo by Matt McInnis, north spore M u s h r o o m M a g i c By Claire z. Cramer I f you like mushrooms–and who doesn’t?–you’ve probably noticed oys- ters, maitakes, shiitakes, and other exot- ic varieties receiving star treatment in Port- land’s restaurants. That these are Maine mushrooms, both cultivated and foraged, adds to their local and often organic ped- igree. You may find them sautéed, roast- ed, or starring on designer pizzas. At the charming new Elda in Biddeford, diners are presented at the start of the meal with warm, fragrant cups of clear mushroom broth infused with a sprig of thyme and a twist of lemon. At Tipo, the casual Italian café on Ocean Street, an assortment of North Spore mushrooms comes in a sauce that works as an appetizer or a light lunch. Chef Mi- Indoor mushroom cultivation is thriving in Maine. We follow three companies through the process.